Over the years, I've acquired a few other camera batteries
from various sources. I recently upgraded my wife's EOS 50D to
an 80D and 2 years ago my 5D became a backup to a 5D Mark III ... the
need for more LP-E6 batteries increased ... so I went on a shopping
binge. We have two genuine Canon batteries and I'm going to put them
side by side with Kastar (KastarUSA), Powerextra, M2cpower, Vivitar,
Sterlingtek (STK), DSTE, Wasabi Power, and ... of course, Canon! I might
even find a couple of others along the way and add them into the mix.
I'm measuring all of them right now... all the pictures are
thumbnails - click to see a full size version. Here is a
snapshot of my logging program gathering data on one of the DSTE
Final results coming soon!
In the process, I've found some things about some of these
aftermarket batteries that I think need to be shouted from the
rooftops, or at least the modern day equivalent of that which
would be an article on the web.
There are tons of reviews and youtube videos out there with people
giving reviews based on just the paper specifications. Sadly, many of
those reviews are complete crap as there is no experimental data to back
up the paper specifications. There is a saying - figures don't lie but
liars figure. People that don't know any better watch these videos and
listen to "experts" and make bad buying decisions based on this.
I'm going to change that!
Some very early results
I've got batteries from Kastar, Sterlingtek (stk), DSTE
and Canon in my hot little hands right now ... and more will arrive in
the next week or two. It takes time - each discharge curve has taken
between 2 and 3.25 hours to generate and batteries need to be charged
between discharge cycles which also takes time.
Here are the first batch of contenders all posing for a
Some of these batteries are quite good - and some
are barely 2/3 as good as others. This is a snapshot of a whole bunch of
discharge curves over time under a constant load showing the voltage
drop over time. The X axis represents the number of minutes, the Y axis is the voltage out of the battery under a decent
constant resistive load:
Each line is a single discharge curve and I have 8-10 different
batteries right now from 4 vendors -- more coming -- with some
discharges repeating multiple times. "Why multiple times?" Glad you
asked that ... to see if the initial capacity is artificially low and if
it will get better over a couple of cycles or not.
And I've got a ton of raw data to back these curves up:
I've got a lot of work before the curves really mean
anything - and I certainly want to be a responsible engineer give all
the vendors a chance to possibly replace a defective battery with a good
one so nobody is abnormally slammed for a supplier error any company
could make. So I'm not yet ready to expose the good, bad, and the ugly
... but I assure you I will!
I plan to go through all this in detail, probably more
than most people want to read. But this first set of curves
is telling me that if I don't test a new battery when it arrives it is
likely to screw me at a critical moment and I won't get the shot.
My goal is to answer the answer to the question "How do
those Amazon / eBay / aftermarket LP-E6 batteries compare to
those expensive genuine Canon batteries?" as well as find who makes
the best performing and best bang-for-the-buck after market batteries.
Like I said above, this is a pre-article so the bots can index the
If you liked this or have questions, please
shoot me an email and say hi! If you ask, I'll keep you informed of any updates
- especially when the first set of results are published. I'm a
real person, a both self and school trained engineer with a hardware /
software / networking background and also a photo junkie ... not some spam gathering email harvesting big corporate junk
Send me an email to this address which I've setup to collect an
interested people list:
eosbatt at dascc dot com.